St. Paul’s dining scene just got more adventurous with the opening of The Velvet Antler, a self-described ‘lounge meets wild game lodge’ situated above the Gnome restaurant. Chef Brian Ingram’s latest venture boldly pushes culinary boundaries with dishes like Walleye Crudo, Venison Tartar with Bone Marrow, and even Kangaroo Curry. The restaurant’s commitment to introducing new exotic wild game every Friday night signals more than just a novel dining experience—it represents a fascinating cultural shift in American dining habits that deserves deeper examination.
Culinary Innovation as Cultural Evolution
The Velvet Antler isn’t merely a restaurant; it’s a barometer for how American palates and dining expectations have evolved. Just twenty years ago, the idea of serving kangaroo or raw venison in the Midwest would have been commercial suicide. Today, it’s marketable enough to anchor an entire restaurant concept. This evolution reflects a broader transformation in American food culture, driven by food media, international travel, and social media’s influence on dining experiences.
Anthony Bourdain’s legacy lives on in venues like The Velvet Antler. His shows democratized culinary adventure, transforming exotic ingredients from intimidating oddities to bucket-list experiences. The result is establishments that can now serve game meats with modern techniques to customers who might never have considered such options before. When Eleven Madison Park in New York introduced their game tasting menu in 2016, reservations sold out within hours—proving high-end diners were ready to embrace what was once considered frontier food.
Sustainability Claims Require Scrutiny
While game meat is often positioned as a more sustainable protein option, the reality deserves critical examination. Wild game harvested through managed hunting programs can indeed represent an environmentally responsible choice. However, commercially raised game animals—which likely supply much of The Velvet Antler’s menu—present a more complicated picture.
When Impossible Foods launched their plant-based burger in 2016, they specifically targeted beef’s environmental footprint. Yet farm-raised elk and bison often require similar resources to cattle. The carbon footprint of importing kangaroo from Australia certainly raises questions about the true sustainability of exotic game restaurants. The Environmental Working Group’s meat consumption study found that lamb—another game meat—actually produces more greenhouse gases per pound than beef.
Before uncritically celebrating game meat as environmentally friendly, consumers deserve transparency about sourcing. Is The Velvet Antler’s venison locally hunted or farm-raised? Is the kangaroo sustainably harvested in Australia or intensively farmed? These questions matter for diners making informed choices.
Cultural Appropriation or Appreciation?
The presentation of wild game through a luxury speakeasy lens raises important questions about cultural context. Many of these proteins have deep significance in indigenous culinary traditions across North America and beyond. The transformation of subsistence foods into high-end delicacies can either honor or erase this heritage.
Sean Sherman, the James Beard award-winning Oglala Lakota chef behind The Sioux Chef, has worked tirelessly to reclaim indigenous food practices. His perspective highlights how Native ingredients and techniques have been systematically marginalized while being selectively incorporated into mainstream dining. The difference between appropriation and appreciation often lies in attribution and respect.
The Walker Art Center’s 2018 exhibition
